Decalcifying is important !!!
Posted by: pc17 December 19, 2008 05:44 pm
Hello,
I once opened my dripstone cave for you 
If you wait with the decalcifying until no more coffee comes, the boiler could look like mine.
Also does not wait.
Lieber once more decalcify.
Greeting Rene
Posted by: Laendlesachse December 19, 2008 06:10 pm
| QUOTE (pc17 @ Friday, December 19, 2008, pc17 @ 19:44 pm)December 2008, 15:44pm) |
| Hello,...So don't wait. Better decalcify once more. Greeting Rene |
... you shouldn't remove the patina in teapots, it gives the tea that certain extra
Posted by: Hisholy December 19, 2008 07:04 pm
Hello Rene,
I have pinned the topic once, so that the filter users finally understand it.
Posted by: cp-fan May 07, 2009 02:13 pm
My coffee machine was always leaking after decalcifying until the lime sealed it again. Until again the brewing lasted for hours and I decalcified again and it was again leaky and it again tbc.
;-)
Decalcifiers are a damn aggressive mixture, but without it probably also does not work.
Posted by: Gregorthom May 07, 2009 03:03 pm
Let's put it this way: You simply waited too long for the lime to corrode the thermoblock in places such as connections etc.. Because if the decalcifier had been decalcified regularly according to regulations, the thermoblock would not have leaked immediately.
The decalcifiers are not that damn aggressive!
Greß
Gregor
Posted by: cp-fan May 07, 2009 03:24 pm
| QUOTE |
| until the lime has eroded the thermoblock in places like connections etc. |
If the pipes are built properly, however, lime does not cause any problems. I know about my pipes, which are installed in the house, there is still nothing broken after fifty years. ;-) And when a piece had to be sawn out for a branch, the pipe looked like new from the inside under the lime layer, which was very thin, against my and the installer's expectations of the water hardness on site (> 20).
But well, that's another topic.
Posted by: Gregorthom May 07, 2009 03:47 pm
Ok that by "coffee machine" you mean a filter squeezer you could also have written, because a VA is also a coffee machine and that's what this thread was about.
As far as the pipes are concerned: The plastic won't leak, but the thermoblocks of aluminum in VAs and the heaters in filter machines will.....and that your house pipes aren't corroded by the lime: They are hardly made of aluminium, or?
Greetings
Gregor
Posted by: cp-fan May 07, 2009 04:01 pm
Yeah, I knew we'd pass it by, so I mentioned it again. Was inspired in the first place by the contribution of Hisholy ... Filtueruser, I remembered my old filter coffee machine.
And as far as the pipes are concerned, of course they are not made of aluminum, even. So you could also use other materials that are more stable - but then of course more expensive and heavier. That's what I was saying.
Posted by: Gregorthom May 07, 2009 05:44 pm
The cables are not made of aluminium anyway, but of plastic, Teflon or silicone. And aluminium thermoblocks are a thing of the past with new VAs. Nevertheless, one must decalcify regularly, because the pipes in the modern thermoblocks and also the hoses do not have a large diameter. Then something will clog up over time.
Greetings
Gregor
Posted by: cp-fan May 08, 2009 08:27 am
| QUOTE |
| And aluminium thermoblocks are a thing of the past with new VAs anyway |
What are they now?
Posted by: Gregorthom May 08, 2009 08:29 am
For fully automatic machines either completely made of stainless steel (e.g. Jura and identical in construction), or the waterways in the form of stainless steel tubes poured into the aluminium block (e.g. DeLonghi and identical in construction).
Brass, copper and, more recently, stainless steel have been used for ages for good screen support machines, boilers and pipes. However, this does not apply to screen carrier machines from Krups, Jura and similar too. There are also mostly thermoblocks to be found, still made of aluminium.
Gruß
Gregor
Posted by: cp-fan May 08, 2009 07:23 pm
Ah, so here you go to more noble too. Beautiful, even if the products become more expensive as a result. But they (hopefully) last longer.
In my Jura screen carrier the water somehow ran out to the side, didn't understand why at first, but then I saw the tiny hairline crack in the aluminium part where the piston is turned in. But now, stop here, it's all about lime.
Posted by: Fieser-Kardinal July 15, 2009 02:04 pm
How often should you decalcify? Is there any healthy information you can follow?
Posted by: Gregorthom July 15, 2009 04:19 pm
You have to set the degree of hardness or the hardness range depending on the VA and you will then be prompted by the machine in time.
But since you have not told us which VA you use and whether you still use a water filter, nobody can give you concrete tips.
Greetings
Gregor
Posted by: Fieser-Kardinal July 17, 2009 03:21 pm
Oh, ok, here's the missing info:
Having a Melitta Caffeo Bistro + Claris water filter.
Posted by: Gregorthom July 17, 2009 03:51 pm
The filter reduces the lime content to 7-8°dH, depending on the manufacturer, VAs with this water hardness want to be decalcified after approx. 150 litres of water.
Often it is also recommended to decalcify at least 1x/quarter when using a filter.
Greß
Gregor
Posted by: Fieser-Kardinal July 18, 2009 01:32 pm
Thanks for the tips. The manual says that you should uncool every 6 months. Is that already too much or bad at the limit?
Posted by: Gregorthom July 20, 2009 10:19 am
Personally, I think this interval is too long. It does not harm the machine in any way to decalcify earlier.
Greetings
Gregor
Posted by: BlueStar August 05, 2009 12:18 am
Six months is way too long. If the machine says nothing when it wants to be decalcified, every 3 months it has to be decalcified. Waiting longer is harmful to the machine.
Decalcifying is also good for your wallet because you firstly save repair costs if something breaks due to calcification and secondly the power consumption of calcified machines is higher than normal. And these machines already draw enough electricity.
Posted by: Gast_Marco October 13, 2009 05:19 pm
Hello everybody,
I just wanted to find a picture for a friend, what happens if you do not decalcify the coffee machine regularly... I have probably found a good example with it.
To spare you this, I recommend the decalcifier from ceragol ultra! For all who are interested www.ceragol.com . The homepage is very informative and clearly arranged. (Even with videos ^^)
Many greetings
Marco
Posted by: Helmut Boe October 14, 2009 08:05 am
Hello Marco,
beautiful advertisement for completely overpriced products: 10l descaler for approx. 65, - €, that goes - with same effect - also approx. 20€ cheaper, e.g. Schuemli descaler, s. E-Bucht.
greeting < br>helmuteness
Posted by: Gast_Marco October 14, 2009 09:03 am
Good morning Helmut,
mag be that the decalcifier is not the cheapest but for appropriate quality I am willing to pay a bit more.
I am very happy with the decalcifier and just wanted to say that here. Also don't consume 10L in a year/month, because I only have one fully automatic coffee machine at home. In addition, 500ml can also be used to descale a proud 5 times, which corresponds to approx. 1.60 euros per descaling process. This is it me my espresso machine value.
Many greetings
Marco
Posted by: Gast_Steffen February 06, 2010 10:01 pm
Moinsen,
The green one in your container, could be due to copper lines.
Not harmless to health...
Greß
Posted by: antolari February 07, 2010 12:46 am
| QUOTE (Gast_Marco @ Wednesday, 14.October 2009, 08:03 hrs) |
| mag be that the decalcifier is not the cheapest but for appropriate quality I am willing to pay a bit more. |
You should have liked us to spend a bit more on the decalcifier. And we're supposed to buy yours, of course.
Posted by: cp-fan February 09, 2010 03:52 pm
Even if it doesn't really fit to the topic again ;-)
But as I read here:
| QUOTE |
| the green one in your tank, could be due to copper pipes |
coincided with my hot kettle being in use more or less daily, in a territory where there is virtually no lime in the pipe. Is such a stainless steel part without visible heating spirals.
There a greenish or even bluish layer (too little at the moment to be able to recognize it properly) forms on the ground over time (years), where presumably the spirals are underneath. They can be removed with stubborn decalcification in many decalcification processes. Had also asked a chemist about it before, he didn't know how to make such a right rhyme about it.
Maybe somebody here has an idea of what it could be?! verdigris or patina it can hardly be.
Posted by: ThoNi81 May 13, 2010 04:13 pm
| QUOTE (Gregorthom @ Monday, July 20, 2009)July 2009, 10:19 am) |
| Personally, I consider this interval too long. It does not harm the machine in any way to decalcify earlier. Greeting Gregor |
ach no... what should the machine remove if no lime is present? then seals and material are attacked...
all (!) fully automatic machines have a corresponding indicator. it is important to set the machine correctly so that the machine also indicates decalcification at the correct time.
- hardness
- with or without filter
- these are two things the machine needs to know to display correctly when decalcifying is back on the line!!!!
Posted by: Helmut Boe May 13, 2010 06:54 pm
Hello Thoni,
when using the expensive Claris filters always, so even if the seminar leaders of Jura claim something different, a regular decalcification is necessary. With an interval of 6 months you are on the safe side, every 4 months is better.
Greß
Helmut
Posted by: Hisholy May 13, 2010 07:12 pm
By the way, if a machine comes to the central service of Jura after singing, it is always decalcified 
Posted by: Die Gabi June 09, 2010 08:41 pm
I have a question about decalcifying: We have very hard water here and the filter, which according to the packaging lasts 2 months, should be replaced after 2 weeks (approx. 250 covers in the time). Is that correct? But then that will be too expensive for me! I can decalcify it every 2 weeks, or?
Posted by: Helmut Boe June 10, 2010 06:24 am
Hello,
as already explained several times: Remove filter, adjust water hardness correctly and decalcify when requested. This can also be done after two weeks with hardness range 4 and correspondingly ample covers.
Helmut
Posted by: Lisa_B October 05, 2013 02:48 pm
So I decalcify about 5 times a year, also use a filter machine.
When I hear there are people who decalcify once a year then I'd rather not see their coffee machine
Posted by: Kaffeeplanet October 05, 2013 07:46 pm
filters are for you, if I calculate what the decalcifier costs compared to the cartridges, I decalcify easily every 2 weeks and for the rest of the money I buy some beers and nochn kilo beans on top of it 
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Posted by: berusmill February 06, 2021 07:51 am
Once the mineral has been removed a standard processing schedule can be used. It must be borne in mind that despite complete decalcification, bone, particularly compact bone, will contain dense areas that require thorough processing. It is better to use a schedule which is too long than too short. Your choice will depend on the nature and size of the specimen. Application of vacuum during wax infiltration should improve the quality of the finished blocks.
Posted by: Sahra September 22, 2021 11:50 pm
I think you are a little off topic or? But lime is not nice, especially in regions like the Alb-Donau-Kreis, which must filter the water before, otherwise the machines must be decalcified every week.
Posted by: Schanelle Cath January 18, 2022 12:23 pm
Hi, thanks for the good advice.
You should always keep the equipment clean so that dirt doesn't break it down when needed and also so that you don't get bad odors.
Posted by: Andi71 June 25, 2022 01:31 pm
Are actually all descalers equally good?
Or is it better to keep your hands off some?
I had always used Crest Active so far, hence my question.
With kind regards
Andi
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