Krups does not start any more

Hello

I also have, after replacing the lower brew seal the problem that the connector to the NTC on the heater has loosened. I have also soldered the cable directly, but the error does not go away.
Therefore, from me a few questions:
How is the Widerstandswertert I have to measure between the connections?
On the upper picture to the connection is a connection between the two connection poles to see - which is interrupted with me (see picture) - sits there the NTC ?

I hope you can help me.

Same issue here, found connectors loose like in previous posts, soldered them back on. BUT I'm still getting the plug/unplug symbol in my display. Any other tips?

Probably the same problem as mine.
To solder the cables (or the connectors) again, a powerful soldering iron is needed and by the resulting heat, the NTC (which sits on the two small soldering points between the cable connections) is also unsoldered or no longer has proper contact.
Just disconnect the cable on the board and measure the resistance between the large contact points with a meter - should be 20 to 50 kiloohms. If it is infinite then there is no more contact via the NTC.
If the NTC is still present - then try to restore the contacts with a very small pencil soldering iron.
If the NTC (like mine) is gone - then a new one must be inserted.
I ordered this one from Völkner:
TDK B57471V2104J062 NTC Temperature Sensor -55 to +125°C 100kΩ 4386 K 805 SMD Tape cut Art.-No.: W90433
(
but only available in packs of ten)
and soldered it in and everything works fine again

.


But attention - soldering such a SMD component is the final opponent

Thanks for your explanation, Grobi. But..

“… the NTC (which sits on the two small soldering points between the cable connections) ...”

Could you clarify this, maybe using the photo that Dieter65 inserted on the previous page, to point out where I should look? Is the NTC so tiny that it’s invisible?

“Just disconnect the cable on the board and measure the resistance between the large contact points with a meter - should be 20 to 50 kiloohms.”

Unfortunately, I have a few screwdrivers, some bent paperclips, chewing gum and a brand-new soldering iron to fix stuff. Have no such meter available.

On this picture (enlargement from the picture of the last page here in post is the NTC (although a bit difficult) to recognize.

On this picture (section of the picture of me) you can see only the two small contact surfaces of the NTC missing.
Re-measurement is hardly possible WITHOUT a measuring device (but if you often times tinker with devices is worth the purchase of a simple measuring device (here is already a simple 10 Euro part)

Simply blind re-soldering (should the NTC still be present) is a risk game. you have to assemble the machine then only temporarily and switch on to see if you had success (if it is then still set to automatic rinse when switching on then the mess is guaranteed.)
Best maybe ask a friend if the can help out with a measuring device
.

Thanks again! I'll think about it.

In the meantime I found this video on Youtube of a guy tinkering with the same issue. He's taking ages and I can't understand him, but the images are clear.

In principle, this is exactly what I wrote.
He soldered the plugs back on and at the end he measured the continuity to see if everything had worked (at 14:35)
. I suspect the heater unit may be a newer issue.
The exact design of the NTC doesn't really matter. It must come only to the housing so that it changes its resistance when heating up and the control knows when heated up is.
If it is lost (as in my case), you have to get one that fits the design and the resistance values in there. I used the one from Völkner, but if you find one in a different design (with the resistance value 100 kOhm) then you can also solder it in there.

Thanks again, Grobi!

Okay, so I ordered an NTC like the one you used, and it just arrived, but it is so extremely tiny that I'm terrified now. I can hardly see the thing, even under a magnifiying glass. How am I ever going to solder that in place?

I've been trying to find a slightly bigger alternative, but I really don't know what I'm doing and starting to despair. I hate it that I may have to give up plans to repair the machine because of a component that costs a few cents, aargh!

As I have already written above, the SMD NTC is the final opponent in terms of soldering
First of all, create space and light so that you can work reasonably. A few drops of valerian (coffee is only available afterwards when the machine is running again) can't hurt either.
The whole thing is a patience game - you should not tremble and also the soldering iron should be a very small one.

There are two ways to solder it:
1.variant: If the two (circled) soldering points (see my picture from 8.1.2023) are clean and free - put the SMD with tweezers on the two soldering points and hold it
.
Then heat with a small soldering iron the soldering point and the connection of the SMD NTC and hope that it worked (there is already a little soldering experience necessary).

2nd variant If the contact points are not so free or broken.
Then first solder a small thin wire (a firm and no flexible wire!) between the two large cable contacts (quasi a short circuit between the large contact points)
, then cut this wire in the middle, fix the SMD NTC at best with a tiny blob of thermal paste in the middle and then solder the two wire ends to the SMD NTC, and when that is soldered the SMD NTC properly press on the thermal paste blob, so that it has good connection to the housing
.


After that - measure if there is any resistance between the big contact points (the one with the cables on it - with the connector removed from the control board). If this is the case, you have done everything right.

I took variant 2 and also used two SMD components (the first one fell down and was never seen again).

I just wanted to thank you again for your clear instructions and your patience, Grobi. I've tried dozens of times, but unfortunately I could not get the smd-component soldered on to the thermal block. It proved too much of a challenge
Yesterday, I finally stored the coffee machine in the attic, after weeks of it lying around on the kitchen counter. Maybe I'll try again some day, maybe I'll just keep the thing for the parts.
Anyway, thank you

Thanks also from me.

Hello everyone, with me was also the NTC resistor.
Both contacts have gone off when I had pulled off the "cover". The NTC resistor I had then also no longer seen.
I then soldered a new 100kOhm NTC resistor in (.
Now "everything" works again but it seems to me as if the temperature is a different on which is heated (lower final temperature). Thus, the coffee is also no longer as strong. Does this mean that geg. the resistance is too high / low and therefore is switched off too early?

What could this be, anyone had the same problem?

Thanks for the information. Have taken apart our Krups EA829. Also had the error with the display of the plug symbol. Our machine also had the two control contacts on the heater disconnected. Have soldered them back on. Are happy because the machine works again. Thank you very much.

Hello, have there also times ne question about the soldering..... had also disassembled an EA89*** to clean and replace seals, the cables have also fallen off. I have the soldered but the machine now no longer heats. The SMD is probably still there, resistance is 99 kOhm at the solder joints when the connector is disconnected.
Is that too much or why it no longer heats?