NTC temperature sensor defective. Where do you get spare parts?

Gentlemen, is it possible to drill a hole between the pins where the blue wires are plugged in, put there a thermistor from TME B57164K104J, then pour some glue from TME ART.AGT-116 AG TERMOPASTY and solder the thermistor's legs into the pins under the wires ???
anyone tried that?
and why do you work with SMD thermistors and not THT?
I am a layman in these matters I ask for an answer or contact 508685445

Great that this forum exists.

It was also the case with my Krups EA 815 that the temperature sensor had given up the ghost.
After reading this thread, I came to the conclusion that it was most likely an NTC with 100 kOhm (at 25 Grd.C).
After unplugging the temperature sensor connector from the circuit board, a resistance measurement showed that the sensor itself (i.e. the tiny SMD component) had a break (and was therefore defective).
By the way, the two flat connector tongues were still firmly connected to the ceramic base plate, which is a fixed part of the brew group.
Since I did not want to bother with SMD soldering in my advanced age (and a corresponding doddering age), I procured a

radially wired NTC with 100 kOhm

from an electronics store (the big store that starts with C and ends with D) under
order no.: 1570292
.


Type: TTC05104JSY.
COST: 50 CentThe

wires, which lead from the circuit board to the temperature sensor (in my case they were coated with white Teflon-insulation) I cut off directly at the plugs, which are plugged on the brew group

.


I then wanted to solder these to the newly acquired temperature sensor (with soft solder). However, this did not work as the wires are probably nickel wire.
I got around this problem by soldering better solderable (also Teflon insulated) wire-wrap leads to the NTC.
These wire-wrap leads were connected to the original leads with a micro torch and silver solder, where the connector is located.
The soldered connections were then insulated with heat shrink tubing.

The NTC itself I placed under the rubber cover of the temperature sensor with plenty of thermal paste, ....... And in such a way that the NTC is pressed against the brew group by the rubber cover.

A first start-up resulted in the following measured values (at brewing temperature on level 3 in the default settings):
Heating up after switching on to approx. 140 degrees Celsius (corresponding to approx. 2.4 kilo ohms)
.

After a few minutes the temperature then drops to about 95 to 100 degrees and is then maintained.
(The temperature was measured by means of a nickel-constantan thermocouple directly on the outer wall of the brewing group.
The thermocouple was clamped under one of the thermal fuses).

In the meantime, the machine has already brewed about 20 cups of the tasty, brown drink......Mal
curious how long this repair will serve its purpose
.


Once again, my best thanks to all who have shared their knowledge in this forum.

P.s.:
Here are some measured values:
Temperature (in degrees C) Resistance (in kOhm)
130. 2,85120


.



3,5115



.




4




,





0100. 6,0
90. 8,5
80. 12,5The

measured values were determined during the cooling phase of the brewing group with the sensor plug removed from the circuit board









.










The machine was of course disconnected from the 230V mains.

Addendum
:Since the shutdown of the brew group heating at something more than 140 degrees for a permanent solution seemed a bit too high, I started the following attempt:
A second NTC with also 100 kOhm parallel to the first additionally under the rubber cover with thermal paste to the brew group and soldered to the sensor connection lines. (Hold a parallel connection of resistors)
Just as well I could have installed a single 50kOhm NTC....., but in contrast to the 100 k - copies was not available with me
.


Result:The
heater shuts off after the first heat up at about 125 degrees C.
After a short time, the temperature on the outer wall of the brew group settles at about 90 degrees.
Outlet temperature of the freshly brewed coffee (temperature preselection in the menu at level 3) at just under 80 degrees at the start of the brewing process. This outlet temperature drops during the brewing process to approx. 65 degrees, ....so that a mixing temperature of approx. 70 degrees is then set in the cup.
In my opinion ideal.

Good luck with the tinkering!

Hello,
also have as someone has already shown, but have Krups EA 9000. When soldering have lost.


Where can I buy Ntc temperature sensor...wolte about Conrad online, but they sell only 10 pieces and only online, so with shipping 11Euro

.

Brauche nicht 10 Stück.

https://www.

conrad.de/de/p/tdk-b57471v2104j062-ntc-temperatursensor-55-bis-125-c-100-k-4386-k-805-smd-tape-cut-419755.html?hk=SEM&WT.srch=1&WT.mc_id=google_pla&s_kwcid=AL%21222%213%21549819384697%21%21%21u%21%21&ef_id=CjwKCAiAhreNBhAYEiwAFGGKPPgGPEWMtlqSP605SGn1ginbx_ITXGxxpVgU_QsDvPcd-Om8ObmerhoC384QAvD_BwE%3AG%3As&gclid=CjwKCAiAhreNBhAYEiwAFGGKPPgGPEWMtlqSP605SGn1ginbx_ITXGxxpVgU_QsDvPcd-Om8ObmerhoC384QAvD_BwEDanke im Voraus

QUOTE (Guest_René @ Saturday, 27 November 2021, 19:24)

Addendum :Since the shutdown of the brew group heating at something more than 140 degrees for a permanent solution seemed a little too high, I started the following attempt: A second NTC with also 100 kOhm parallel to the first additionally under the rubber cover with thermal paste to the brew group and soldered to the sensor connection lines. (Hold a parallel connection of resistors) Just as well I could have installed a single 50kOhm NTC....., but in contrast to the 100 k - copies was not available with me . Result:The heater shuts off after the first heat up at about 125 degrees C. After a short time, the temperature on the outer wall of the brew group settles at about 90 degrees. Outlet temperature of the freshly brewed coffee (temperature preselection in the menu at level 3) at just under 80 degrees at the start of the brewing process. This outlet temperature drops during the brewing process to approx. 65 degrees, ....so that a mixing temperature of approx. 70 degrees is then set in the cup. In my opinion ideal. Good luck with your tinkering!

Hello ReneCan
you help me? Where did you buy NTC?

Sorry, have only today seen the demand regarding procurement source.
I bought my NTC at Conrad.
I ordered them online and had them delivered to the store near us.
Instead of the 2 pieces 100kOhm (2 pieces 100kOhm parallel = 50 kOhm) you can also use only one single 50kOhm with the Conrad order no.: 557209 - NA .
These radially wired NTCs are also available separately.
If you don't have the possibility to pick them up in a store, you have to pay shipping costs (shipping costs* 6,65 €).

Put these radially wired NTC with thermal paste at the place of the original NTC at the brew group housing.

Hope I could help.
Good luck
.

Hello all,

Since I was also allowed to repair my EA891D19 today I let times the video here: https:

me it was unfortunately not the temperature sensor, but I could measure it and can confirm: It has 50kOhm. Not 100, not 10. 50!
hope the video or the info can help someone else.
By the way, with me the water quantity sensor was defective. See also explanation in the video.

LG, Ludwig.

Hi guys

I also seem to have a problem with this machine. I think my thermistor is ok, the value is around 110k at room temperature 22 degrees and the value lowers when the kettle is warming.

I tested in two settings:
1/ sensor disconnected, you hear relay clicking and clicking of again, every time I use the power button . I can lower the resistance value to 18-19kohm.
2/ sensor connected: after 2-3 times the relay stops clicking

It seems to be a faulty circuit board element. Does somebody have an idea what is the next component to check? The one that interpretates the temperature?

Hi,
I am reading the post. I have the same problem with my krups ea 8108.
Where I can find the correct NTC from EBAY?
I am from Greece and how I can ask this from a local store?
Any data for this?

Hello
Is anyone from this forum able to replace this thermistor ? At my place there is a burnt hole, unfortunately I can not do it myself, maybe someone would undertake it ? Of course, for a fee?

Hello to the round,

machine: Krups Evidence EA 895N10

Beforehand: My machine is 2 years old and is used daily ca.7 cups. At some point hardly any water came into the drip tray, once a week a a puddle under the machine and it hissed when the brew plunger went up.
Automat runs with water filter and the hardest hardness level set. Descale always possible only after 28000 cycles and wanted it first.
Warranty just expired 3 weeks and no goodwill from Krups or Otto.

Was not ready and already frustrated for a machine so young and expensive is still ne expensive repair to pay.

Have the machine completely serviced, overhauled you can already say. 3 hoses, condenser, drain valve, brewing piston replaced. The rest disassembled, partly. new seals purely and everything cleaned, housing, bottom, etc. everything in dishwasher, small stuff in the ultrasonic bath. Calcified and that neat was only the condenser (Alublock above the drip tray) where the condensation settles and runs into it.

Also me, the cables from the thermistor fell off immediately when removing the BK, was already a struggle to solder the back on, did not want to keep so right. Also I have not seen the 1.5mm thermistor and thought it sits the sensor under the plate.

During the test, the maintenance program was started immediately and canceled after heating. It was clear that the thermistor was damaged and I was frustrated again.

On eBay there are 5 thermistors for 3€ with shipping
Thermistor Hotwire 3950K MF52B 5% 50k Ohm
Seller: androegg

SMD I did not want to solder, it needs experience.
Left the wires on the board and just soldered the thermistor to it, pressed it to the board and good. I didn't have thermal paste and you don't have to buy it. It also works like this.

No more Krups comes into my house, it does it now until the end and then something else. Am disappointed by the goodwill and cheap processing. One could have installed a sensor to screw on and not such a cheap stuff. This is wanted by the manufacturer, beautiful in the repair then build a new brewing unit to the customer 130€ plus labor.
So much for the law for less electrical waste

Greetings
Lars

QUOTE (Guest_Lars @ Saturday, 17 June 2023, 10:44 PM)

Hello to the round, machine: Krups Evidence EA 895N10 Preliminary: My machine is 2 years old and is used daily ca.7 cups. At some point hardly any water came into the drip tray, once a week a a puddle under the machine and it hissed when the brew plunger went up. Automat runs with water filter and the hardest hardness level set. Decalcify always only possible after 28000 cycles and wanted it first once. Warranty just expired 3 weeks and no goodwill from Krups or Otto. Was not ready and already frustrated for a machine so young and expensive is still ne expensive repair to pay. Have the machine completely serviced, overhauled you can already say. 3 hoses, condenser, drain valve, brewing piston replaced. The rest disassembled, partly. new seals purely and everything cleaned, housing, bottom, etc. everything in dishwasher, small stuff in the ultrasonic bath. Calcified and that neat was only the condenser (Alublock above the drip tray) where the condensation settles and runs into it. Also me, the cables from the thermistor fell off immediately when removing the BK, was already a struggle to solder the back on, did not want to keep so right. Also I have not seen the 1.5mm thermistor and thought it sits the sensor under the plate. During the test, the maintenance program was started immediately and canceled after heating. It was clear that the thermistor was damaged and I was frustrated again. On eBay there are 5 thermistors for 3€ with shipping Thermistor Hotwire 3950K MF52B 5% 50k Ohm Seller: androegg SMD I did not want to solder, it needs experience. Left the wires on the board and just soldered the thermistor to it, pressed it to the board and good. I didn't have thermal paste and you don't have to buy it. It also works like this. No more Krups comes into my house, it does it now until the end and then something else. Am disappointed by the goodwill and cheap processing. One could have installed a sensor to screw on and not such a cheap stuff. This is wanted by the manufacturer, beautiful in the repair then build a new brewing unit to the customer 130€ plus labor. So much for the law for less electrical waste Greetings Lars

I again,

who does not want to solder or can there are ready thermistors so with cable and plug on it, best to take one without stainless steel housing at the end. You only need to plug it in and clamp it under the rubber cap or stick it to the plate with a blob of heat conductive glue. There are 5-pack for just under 8 € including shipping on Amazon. You can also use the ones from 3D print heads, only the 50 kOhm is important.

Greetings Lars

QUOTE (Guest_Lars @ Saturday, 17 June 2023, 14:46)

QUOTE (Guest_Lars @ Saturday, June 17, 2023, 10:44 PM) Hello to the round, machine: Krups Evidence EA 895N10 Beforehand: my machine is 2 years old and is used daily ca.7 cups. At some point hardly any water came into the drip tray, once a week a a puddle under the machine and it hissed when the brew plunger went up. Automat runs with water filter and the hardest hardness level set. Descale always possible only after 28000 cycles and wanted it first. Warranty just expired 3 weeks and no goodwill from Krups or Otto. Was not ready and already frustrated for a machine so young and expensive is still ne expensive repair to pay. Have the machine completely serviced, overhauled you can already say. 3 hoses, condenser, drain valve, brewing piston replaced. The rest disassembled, partly. new seals purely and everything cleaned, housing, bottom, etc. everything in dishwasher, small stuff in the ultrasonic bath. Calcified and that neat was only the condenser (Alublock above the drip tray) where the condensation settles and runs into it. Also me, the cables from the thermistor fell off immediately when removing the BK, was already a struggle to solder the back on, did not want to keep so right. Also I have not seen the 1.5mm thermistor and thought it sits the sensor under the plate. During the test, the maintenance program was started immediately and canceled after heating. It was clear that the thermistor was damaged and I was frustrated again. On eBay there are 5 thermistors for 3€ with shipping Thermistor Hotwire 3950K MF52B 5% 50k Ohm Seller: androegg SMD I did not want to solder, it needs experience. Left the wires on the board and just soldered the thermistor to it, pressed it to the board and good. I didn't have thermal paste and you don't have to buy it. It also works like this. No more Krups comes into my house, it does it now until the end and then something else. Am disappointed by the goodwill and cheap processing. One could have installed a sensor to screw on and not such a cheap stuff. This is wanted by the manufacturer, beautiful in the repair then build a new brewing unit to the customer 130€ plus labor. So much for the law for less electrical waste Greetings Lars I again, who does not want to solder or can there are ready thermistors so with cable and plug on it, best to take one without stainless steel housing at the end. You only need to plug it in and clamp it under the rubber cap or glue it to the plate with a blob of heat conductive glue. There are 5-pack for just under 8 € including shipping on Amazon. You can also use the ones from 3D print heads, only the 50 kOhm is important. Greetings Lars

Hi Lars , could you send me the link for the thermistors by WhatsApp ? My number is 0163 6024663

Hello Community,
after finding the error code display (^^) I found this forum and after disassembling the machine (EA81*) confirmed my "suspicion" - the one leg of the temperature sensor connector was completely loose under the plastic cover. I will try it with a battery spotwelder, but it just needs to be recharged (discharges when you don't use it for a longer time because button-ON/OFF-switch ) - or does anyone know another solution to get it tight again ?
Greetings, Alex

... after I wait until my battery is full come me so some thoughts:
- Is the Füsschen in the original with silver paste hingklelebt? (looks in any case so?)
- Can you shoot the sensor by normal soldering?
- Does that go at all with nem Spotwelder ?
mfg. Alex