is relatively new here and would like to ask your advice about my problem with my Krups XP7230.
After my approx. 5 year old machine had recently attracted attention due to strange noises and bad tasting thin coffee, I opened it once with the help of the instructions found here in the forum and found that this bent spring, which scratches the coffee from a guide "scratches", was broken at one end. Fortunately I was able to fix that (and clean the totally dirty machine a little bit), but since then this sweetheart seems to be a little nasty on me.
1. Now does the coffee brewing take much longer. Much more water is used with the same setting (approx. 25 % more).
2. Water runs out after a while below the machine. This must happen quite far down in the machine, otherwise the parts are all dry. Everything below the filler neck is damp, so I first suspected a defect in the seal for the water tank. So I would rule out a leakage at the brewing unit etc. for the time being.
I always removed the water container directly after the coffee was brewed. But that doesn't help and the poetry looks like new. Somehow the water, which is still in the system, seems to gradually make its way down. I put kitchen paper under it; it takes about half an hour after the coffee has been brewed until the cloth is moist. Looks also like clear water.
When I then reinstall the water tank, the machine first requires the filling of the water circuit (place the tank under the foaming nozzle, etc...).
>Any of you know this behavior and have an idea? I'm grateful for any hint that will spare me an expensive repair.
I would put the device into operation without housing. This is the best way to see where the leakage is. This can be anything from a faulty / slipped seal or hose.
first of all many thanks to Chris and Rudi for your answers.
I will try again on the WE to find out something more and then report here. I suppose you have a few tricks on how to operate the machine without a case, because without a case the "attachments" (coffee cake container, protective compartment, etc.) and especially the water tank are very shaky and probably potentially leaky.
I just want to avoid misjudgements due to the flying structure. I had tried this before and only saw water below the water tank at the filler neck.
How do you explain the increased water consumption? 25% is 'a lot, and the additional water does not end up in the drip tray, but is used properly for brewing coffee. There must have been something wrong (?). And the brewing time is also significantly increased. I can't make a rhyme out of it yet...
Yes for the marc container I have a wooden skewer stuck under there the cleaning slide can be left in it, water bowl too. I would tie the water tank to the grinder adjustment with a cable tie and place something heavy next to it (knife block or something similar), then use a flashlight to look exactly where the water is coming from. The Otikerschellen can be pressed with an old blunt Rabbit pliers with caution or one can get small hose clamps in the DIY store, which are available in very narrow, or makeshift with a 4-5mm wide cable tie (but the good ones). Had demoted the complete brewing unit here and pushed the Otikerschellen back on, everything is tight. Maybe you have to shorten the hose a bit and put some food grade grease into the hose, just a little bit. Call me when you've located the error. MfG Chris
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So, I've just had my little machine apart and it's like bewitched: Nothing licks there. No gasket, no hose leaking.
The machine was now on the test bench for two hours, always with a full water tank. I have probably taken ten coffees and looked at everything around me, even leaving the machine 'for half an hour in peace if water runs out. Nada!
>The only small puddle of water was just below the reception of the drip tray (which is slightly above ground level), where a hose runs from right to left underneath. I also had the impression that this was slowly getting more. But so slowly that in the two hours something was not really noticeable. And below the shell is nothing that can leak...
All other "critical" parts of the machine are tight.
My suspicion slowly comes to my mind that the large amount of coffee powder in the machine (due to the previously defective spring), which I couldn't completely remove in some places with my own means, sometimes prevents the dynamic parts from closing tightly. Due to the strong virbration, the distribution of the powder changes slightly again and again.
In any case, I don't know what to do next and watch the day-to-day operation go on. The espresso just now was as always very tasty, so I can continue drinking coffee.
Hello Scotty, the hose that runs through the bottom is the one for the water distributor (WV) see if this all works right.possibly press the Otiker quickly with a rabbit forceps (carefully) Then again to the increased water consumption, you have more coffee in your cups. As such I can't imagine that the KV aufeinmal´nen consumes quarter more water. As such more MfG Chris
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the hose that runs long under the intake of the water bowl is tight (of course at both ends). The water there may have been residual water, which I couldn't get out. This morning I had already brewed six cups of coffee, all dry under the machine. I don't understand it (but I'm glad about it anyway ).
The extra water actually results in more coffee. What I also noticed: Since my "repair" of the spring, the water bowl is always quite empty when asked to be emptied (before it was always almost full to overflow). I think the water now mainly ends up in the cup; and the protective slider is now always super clean (I'm not used to it either).
However, the amount of water is not even close to the one selected in the display. Up to now I have gotten with the setting 80 ml per portion of coffee into my Mug 4 times coffee; now the Mug is already overfull after three times purchase. Very mysterious...
I am now waiting for a puddle to form under the machine again. Then it goes on with the search...
In most cases the solution is much simpler. When the housing is pushed on, the water tank seal in the device has slipped or been crushed. This would explain the clear water under the machine, as well as the longer brewing time.
Well that would be a mistake,but don't explain his 25% more water unless it's a steam engine. Or he's deceived. Measure how many cups you have to fill into the water container with a cup you use for drinking coffee, and write down cups per stroke. Think one to one and a half cups are within tolerance m.E. MfG Chris
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I continue to follow Rudi's idea - especially since now, six hours after the last coffee, a little water has escaped from the machine again. Today I ordered a new gasket for the water tank and will install the next WE times.
On water consumption: It is quite clear that since the repair there is considerably more coffee per cup than before. In concrete terms, the Mug can comfortably hold 320 ml of liquid when filled, making two double portions of 80 ml each (i.e. four portions in total). So was's at least before my spring repair.
Now three portions are enough to fill the mug. This means: 105 ml per portion today compared to 80 ml earlier. So it's about 30% more. So much water doesn't land outside the machine and I don't believe that the leakage occurs during the coffee brewing process. However, there is considerably less water in the drip pan today, so the surplus inevitably ends up in the cup. But does that explain 30% ???
>The key question is in my opinion: What regulates the DURATION of the coffee brewing process? And how can this be influenced by soiling with coffee powder and perhaps even careless dismantling? Because when water is drawn for longer, more water runs through the coffee powder into the cup. And I find it takes twice as long per cup as it used to. I would have guessed the duration would be purely electronic. Obviously this is not so...
I haven't mentioned before that the reference noise has changed a bit (I don't know how to describe it: it gargles and grumbles a little more ???). Nothing that worries me; the machine at work sounds the same.
Find it great how you keep coming back with ideas!!! Keep me in touch after replacing the gasket...
Cheers, Scotty
P.S.: Is that right that this spring is bent up at the bottom end during the shutdown? This sledge goes quite far down, so that the spring is bent up from its horizontal position at the bottom.
Hello again Scotty, the spring which sits at the upper brewing piston is only responsible for the grinding material. Surely you can get it cheap somewhere, but it should also be a stainless steel spring. May be quiet longer then you just take the picture and bend the last turn to the next turn as it looks at the other end.
!!!!!Coffee!!! Check the marc, how fine or coarse it is then?
Your Mug(beaker) is filled by the ml selection, this does not go then over a time control but only over the flowmeter.
MfG Chris
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today I changed the seal of the water tank. Conclusion: Everything is dense there.
About Chris's question about the marc: I think he has a normal grain and the puks are firm and complete, so they don't fall apart. Also the humidity seems to be OK.
The ml selection is definitely not OK, I still get too much coffee. So the problem still exists, something has changed the water quantity calculation enormously.
On my leakage: The water slowly comes out under the intake of the drip tray. That's where the leakage must be. But what is it???? Dried everything before the test this time, and that's where it leaks. See also the arrow in the attached picture.
Due to the spring, I also took some pictures, once in brewing mode, where the sled was completely down, and once in rest mode. The bent up feather seems a bit strange to me personally.
In summary, here are my questions, which I can't answer at the moment:
- Why do I still get more coffee than I have adjusted? - Why does it leak below the receptacle of the drip pan? - Is it correct that the spring for the ground material is bent up so high?
Hello Scotty, thought you'd gone. So this with the spring is so far ok. Haven't you read my message? Had something with Ea 8255, the inside is the same. The hydraulic cylinder has only O-rings in it. Have some of them Pic´s here, but I'm delayed with the description.
As same licking, think same problem. Have provided mine with new orings and locking plates (as they are only spring steel ones), now it's dry again. MfG Chris
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