AEG CAFE PERFETTO CP 3300

Hello,

I have the following problem with my AEG Cafe Perfetto CP 3300:

Since yesterday the display "device heats" flashes continuously. Today I decalcified the machine and took out the brewing unit and cleaned it - then put it back in and switched it on.

The display "device heats" (thermometer symbol) still flashed - so the device is not ready for operation. Then I made a cup of coffee - it came out cold from the machine.

My main problem is that since then the brewing unit is stuck and I can't get it out anymore (the red locking button can't be pushed down despite pressing the red safety button).

May be related to the fact that the machine is not operational and the brewing unit is therefore not in the right position.

Or does someone have an idea how to get the brewing unit out of the machine safely?

Many thanks for your help
Heinz

Hello Heinz!

>What first surprises me is that you could still descale and make a coffee... Normally, the machine will not be ready for operation until the temperature is reached

If the BG is stuck, the only thing that normally helps is to open the housing and turn the drive back a little by hand. The drive is probably under load at the moment, which clamps the BG.

In the appendix the instructions for opening the machine.

And if the machine is already open you can also check the heating (thermoblock) right away.
To do this you have to switch on the machine (from now on you have to be careful, 230V). However, this is only possible if you clamp/bridge the switch for checking the service flap (coffee spout). After switching on, you can feel if the thermoblock is heating up. If not, measure directly at the connections of the TB whether voltage is present here - if yes, the TB is dead. If no, measure before the thermal fuse (is installed in a supply line of the TB's and fixed on top of the TB). If voltage is applied before the thermal fuse, and the thermal fuse is no longer applied after it. There's at the electronics craft shop for about one Euro

Gruß Joranz

Hello Joranz,

thank you very much for your help! I got the brewing unit out with your tip.

The thermoblock is really defective. I think the heater's broken. With the ohmmeters I don't measure a passage here.

Had asked AEG in Austria for a replacement, but they could tell me a price (about 50€) but not when the part is available.

Will see where I can find the thing.

SG,
Heinz

If you can't measure a passage, the thermoblock is definitely broken. The thermal fuse still has passage? Otherwise you have to refresh it with .
The thermoblock exists'e.g. here:
Thermoblock new
or a bit cheaper here:
Thermoblock overhauled

However, you have to disassemble the outlet nozzle under the TB when replacing it. The problem is that the gaskets most likely won't keep tight anymore if you just reassemble the nozzle.
so you'll either need a complete new outlet nozzle:
outlet nozzle new
Or you just get the three O-rings. However, the problem is to find the appropriate ones... I can tell you the measurements (I have to search first), but I haven't found a source yet that can give me these measurements in the right material (EPDM) I have O-rings made of Viton (FKM) running for testing purposes, they have been working without problems for about half a year now.
Well, I'm just digressing a bit
Then have fun with the repair!

Greeting Joranz

Hello Joranz,

thanks to you the machine runs again, thanks a lot!

I exchanged the thermoblock including the outlet nozzle and then also the brewing unit according to your instructions completely disassembled and resealed.

The machine is running fine again now and I am happy

Note thanks and greetings from Austria.

Heinz

Hello Heinz,

much thanks for your feedback and congratulations on the successful repair!
If you don't already have it: care instructions brewing group So that everything runs well in the future

Greß Joranz

Hello Joranz,

Yesterday I tested the machine again in detail and compared it with the SIEMENS S60 of my parents-in-law.

In particular I mean the grind adjustment. I believe that the grinding degree is not correctly preset and I wanted to ask you how to preset the grinding degree correctly?

The grinding degree on the AEG is set to the coarsest position and the pomace tabs are then included: "a coffee - very strongly adjusted", 1.5 cm thick and with: "two coffees - very strongly adjusted" 2.6 cm thick.

What bothers me is that when comparing the pomace, the pomace flour of the AEG is much finer than the pomace flour of the SIEMENS, even though the grinding degree of the SIEMENS is almost "fine" and the grinding degree of the AEG is at the coarsest setting. The pomace tabs of the SIEMENS are also much thicker than those of the AEG.

In my opinion, the AEWG's default grinding degree is not correct (too fine).

SG,
Heinz

It could also be that the grinding degree of the S60 is too coarse...
Only that the pomace tabs at AEG are too thin does not necessarily mean that the grinding degree is too fine. Basically, the amount of ground powder decreases the finer the degree of grinding is. However, the amount can also decrease because the millstones are worn out.
But I leave the evaluation to you - you have to feel the marc >

To adjust the AEG:
First set the grinder to "coarse".
When you remove the cover of the machine, the black "superstructure" of the grinder stops. Sometimes it also gets stuck on the lid, but is in any case a separate component.
In this superstructure the adjustment knob for the grinding degree is fixed.
The adjustment knob drives the outer ring of the grinding mechanism via a toothing.
If you now lift the superstructure so far that this toothing no longer meshes, you can set the adjustment knob to "fine" and bring the superstructure back into its position (toothing meshes again). So the old setting is "coarse" now "fine".
You may have to shift the teeth on the outer grinding ring a little, otherwise you will run out of teeth (for the new adjustment range). The ring with the toothing is only clipped in, simply unscrew it, twist it accordingly (in your case counterclockwise) and clip it back on again.

Hope I have expressed myself clearly. It's actually quite easy, but stupid to describe, I just notice

If you have any problems, just report again...

Greeting Joranz

Hello Joranz,

I'm sorry that I'm just getting in touch with you, but I only got to change the grind setting yesterday with your tip.

Many thanks again!

The whole thing is relatively easy, but I had the grind setting (as I now know) first too rough. With 1 cup of coffee and set to very strong - everything was perfect. But when I then tried - 2 cups of coffee and set to very strong - the brewing group was overfilled and the coffee ended up in the marc container.

I then tried and set until the 2 cups with the strongest coffee setting from the brewing group could still be achieved and then set the control knob for the grinder setting in the middle (i.e. between 2 cups of coffee and 2 cups of coffee). coarse and fine).

My tabs are now approx. 2cm and 3cm thick (for 1 and 2 cups of very strong coffee).

If the grinder is set up this way (2 cups and very strong coffee must still be brewed by the brewing group)?

SG,
Heinz

Hello Heinz.

QUOTE

If you do this when setting the grinder (2 cups and very strong coffee still have to be brewed by the brewing group)?

Jein. This is certainly no mistake. However, I have always set it so that only the 2 mild steps worked with the 2-cup cover. That gave me more powder on the 1-cup cover.
However, the grinding degree should be set correctly as a matter of priority. The grinding quantity should only be regulated slightly above this.

Greß Joranz